Ten Most Common Leak Locations

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Many homes are bothered by roof leaks. They're indeed difficult to diagnose. To make matters worse, leaks will appear in different places depending on the weather.

The principle of gravity is used by the great majority of roof coverings. This can be quite useful in pinpointing the source of a leak. Horizontal roof planks, on the other hand, can deceive you. A leak could be eight to ten feet away from the damp ceiling or attic place where you observe it.

It's simple to track down the source of certain leaks. Others will necessitate some detective work and the use of a garden hose and an inside spotter. If you are unsure about climbing on a roof, contact Fox Roofing and Construction for a free roof damage assessment. This can be as difficult as identifying the tiniest leak! Here are a few pointers to help you locate a nagging roof leak.

The Shingle Field:

If your roof is older, the leak could be coming from the shingle field. This is the spread of shingles, slate, shakes, or whatever you choose to call it. If your roof is made of asphalt, you can walk around freely. Slate, concrete tile, and clay tile, for example, may not be as forgiving. If you walk on roofing, it can crack, so be careful. Look at the tops of the vertical knockouts with regular shingles. Look for any colored granules that are missing. Keep an eye out for cracks. A nail may have backed out of the sheathing on the roof. Simply take your time and look for treasure.

A valley is a line formed by the intersection of two roof planes. In the valleys of Cincinnati, we employ metal flashing. Rolled roofing is used in several regions. In other locations, the shingles are simply laced together. Valleys can be a major headache if the shingles aren't properly trimmed. When you cut a shingle for a valley, the end of the shingle ends up with a chisel tip. Water can travel over the top of the shingle and into your house if a second cut is not performed to make this point like an arrow point. This easy second cut is explained on the shingle wrapper.

Roof Flashings:

Some roofs come to a halt at a vertical wall. A metal flashing must be installed to divert water flowing down the wall away from the shingles' stopping point. Behind wood siding or in front of a brick wall, this flashing may be found. At least three inches of flashing should be visible above the shingles. The flashing must bend and extend one inch into a mortar joint if the wall is brick or another masonry. Never use tar, caulk, or roofing cement in conjunction with these products. It's a sign that someone tried to fix a leak if you notice them!

Roof Leaks at Step Flashings:

Roof leaks can occur at step flashings. These flashings can be found when a roof meets a vertical wall. A step flashing is put over the shingle close to the wall when each row of shingles is laid. Part of the flashing is visible on the wall, while the rest is hidden beneath the next row of shingles. Inspect these flashings for rust or holes. In actuality, assuming everything goes properly, you'll only be able to view a small amount of these flashings.

Chimneys:

The source of many a leak, these devils. There are four basic forms of flashing in chimneys. If anything isn't right, you'll leak. In addition, the counterflashing in the brick mortar joint must be correct. A small fracture above the flashing might allow a lot of water to flow behind the flashings. Look for any soldered flashing corners that have cracked or have holes. Caulk should not be used to repair these flashings!

Plumbing Vent Flashings:

I'm concerned about the newer vent flashings. A rubber seal with an aluminum flashing is used in several of them. In as little as 10 to 15 years, the rubber may fail. Around the plumbing pipe, look for cracked rubber. From the middle of the plumbing vent, the flashing should dive up and beneath the shingles that extend up the roof. The bottom half of the flashing should be visible and cover the shingles completely.

B-Vent or Furnace Flashing:

These flashings are very similar to plumbing vent flashings. They do, however, occasionally have a metal storm collar. These just fit snugly around the roof's vertical pipe exit. The storm collars might create leaks if they go loose.

Ice Dam Leaks:

People in the Snowbelt are plagued by ice dam leaks. Even if your roof appears to be in good condition, leaks might occur. Ice dams prevent water from flowing freely down a roof. Water begins to back up behind flashings, shingles, tar paper, and other roofing materials. It can take days for the water to start flowing into the house. The only way to avoid this is to put membranes beneath the roof. The membranes will not stop ice from forming, but they will halt water leaks if correctly fitted.

Leaks Caused by Wind:

Wind-driven rain can be a serious issue. You could have a good roof, but the wind will push water up and under your roofing materials. Tar paper and ice dam membranes are the only lines of protection. If you have metal troughs, you may want to hem the edges. This indicates that the valley's hidden edges have a 180-degree curve. Roofing cement under shingles on the edges of roofs that face the wind is also a good idea, as it provides a channel that channels wind-blown rain back to the bottom of the valley. Don't underestimate the force of a persistent wind of 70 miles per hour.

Roof Leaks That Aren't Roof Leaks!:

You may believe you have a roof leak when the roof is actually good. Condensation in the attic is a good example. Condensation and "rain" can form in your attic due to high humidity. It may also appear damp on the underside of the roof sheathing. Instead, you believe your leak. Chimney crowns are prone to cracking. The inside of the chimney becomes discolored, and the plaster begins to bubble. You believe a roof leak is to blame. Above a roof, siding can be lacking. Water may enter behind head flashings as a result of this. Snoop around for leaks like a good gumshoe!